Enjoy, take pleasure in, savor. All words that perfectly describe the experiences I have had when eating at restaurants owned by my two friends Christine Prunier and Linda Robinson. Given that, it is particularly appropriate that they have changed the name of their current restaurant (previously known as Margaux) to relish, a word that means all of those things.
A former regular at Margaux, after arriving in Maine last week I made my way to relish as soon as I could. Located in the same cozy building at 404 Main Street, South Berwick, Maine where Margaux was housed, relish is freshly painted inside and out, with new furniture, lighting and an updated menu.
Chris and Linda call relish an “upscale gourmet diner” which is a phrase that fits the fresh seasonal menu like a deerskin glove would fit my hand.
I started my meal with the appetizer special — a smoked trout salad with maple bacon, red onion, mango and buttermilk dressing. The plate arrived mounded with greens and smoky, salty, shredded trout; flavors and textures that were perfectly balanced by the sweet, crunchy maple bacon, cool slices of mango and just the right amount of light, tangy dressing.
For my main course I settled on the Porcini Mac ‘n Cheese, described in typically succinct prose on the menu as including “three cheeses and truffled bread crumbs.” Every bite was a mouthfilling rush of perfectly prepared pasta, rich creamy cheese, substantial porcini mushrooms and freshly toasted breadcrumbs earthy with just the right amount of truffle oil. I guess it would be hard to put all of that into a description on the menu.
For dessert I chose the light and fresh angelfood cake with housemade tropical fruit compote; a perfect ending to a memorable meal.
In addition to great food, Chris and Linda have a full bar and a list of thoughtfully selected and reasonably-priced wines by the bottle and by the glass.
It makes me sad that I live too far from South Berwick to be a regular at relish; I’ll be thinking of all of you eating there, though.